A colleague recently showed me some garments that had needle damage.
When I asked him if he discussed needle policy with his supplier, he mentioned that he did not.
Obviously needles need to be replaced at certain intervals by a sewing factory, and very often the factory does not have a good (if any real) needle policy.
However, it is still important for the factory to know, that you know about the importance of a needle policy.
It indicates that you know your business, and indicates to them that this is something you will possibly specifically look for.
I was thinking about things to write about, things that are often overlooked in design and manufacturing, but can have a major repercussion if not taken into account.
One of these is stitches per inches or SPI, which I have done some looking into, and so should you.
A common standard is often around 9-11 SPI, regardless of garment, fabric and construction.
The correct SPI can not only have a practical implication, but if used correctly can have a big influence on quality, and aesthetics.
Denim, where the SPI should be between 7 and 9. Fewer SPI, give a great contrast effect.
Twill garments, where an SPI of 8-10, will minimize grinning.
Formal shirts, where an SPI of 14-20, allows the use of smaller diameter threads, which reduce puckering.
Blindstitching, should be around 3-5 SPI. This minimizes dimpling effect.
These are just some issues regarding woven items. I will give some insight into knit items in my next post, but do some research. I will be.
Till next time.